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Staff Educational: A Journey to the Antarctic

Date Posted: 19/06/2024

Fran from our Cruise Team recently embarked on a journey of a lifetime to the breathtaking Antarctic! Keep reading to find out what she got up to... 

"My 12-day Antarctic journey started in vibrant Buenos Aires as part of HX – Hurtigruten Expeditions’ ‘Highlights of Antarctica’ package, and included a pre-voyage overnight stay in Argentina’s capital city, giving enough time to do some exploring of the city centre and colourful La Boca Latin quarter.

Before joining our early-morning flight to the most southern city in the world, Ushuaia, our luggage was taken by HX and transferred to the ship separately, and the next time I would see my suitcase, was on board in my cabin. The domestic flight boarding passes were issued on the transfer coach to the airport for the three-hour flight south to Ushuaia, and the excitement started to build. Upon arrival in the snow-capped mountainous Ushuaia, there’s enough time to explore the nearby Tierra Del Fuego National Park with its beautiful lakes, mountains and landscapes where the indigenous Yaghan people once roamed,and makes a fascinating pre-voyage time-filler before boarding HX’s MS Fridtjof Nansen. 

From the moment I stepped on board the ship, I knew that I was in for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, and this was no ordinary cruise ship. MS Fridtjof Nansen is a well-equipped, hybrid-powered expedition vessel, dedicated to sustainability and scientific research, whilst providing a very modern, comfortable and informal environment for passengers to enjoy their experiences to remote areas of the world. The thought of crossing the notorious and formidable Drake Passage was slightly alarming … it’s either the ‘Drake Shake’ or the Drake Lake’, and luckily my experience was of the latter, which made the essential tasks of: pre-expedition boot-fitting; clothes vacuuming (to eliminate any pests brought aboard in our pockets etc); mandatory code-of-conduct-whilst-in-Antarctica briefing; and a range of optional lectures about what we would be experiencing on this journey of a lifetime, more bearable during the two-day crossing. HX’s dedicated Expedition Team provide endless and in-depth knowledge about the Antarctic landscape, wildlife and history, the impact of climate change, global warming and plastic pollution and the fascinating Citizen Science projects in engaging and easy-to understand presentations and workshops on board, as well as guiding us safely to areas off the ship during landings and small boat cruising amongst the Antarctic wildlife and icebergs. If the information-overload is too much, there’s an infinity pool, jacuzzis, Wellness Centre and a floor-to ceiling Sauna with the most spectacular view to relax in. The Explorer Lounge offers extensive panoramic views and welcoming bar and complimentary tea/coffee area. There’s three dining venue options on board MS Fridtjof Nansen, from extensive buffet choices, a-la-carte and elevated fine-dining. Accommodation ranges from outside cabins and suites, all tastefully designed in elegant yet cozy Scandinavian décor offering a comfortable retreat after a day of exploration.

The first sighting of an iceberg and whales spouting in the distance stirred the exhilaration of what I had come all this way to see. Travelling to the end of the Earth was a little daunting, to be so far from civilisation, and the unfamiliar realisation that I was stepping into a world where the wildlife is in abundance and reign above all else, reminded me of how precious our world is, and the importance of preserving it.

To wake up in a white landscape of the Antarctic Peninsular is something quite surreal … the beauty is overwhelming. Surrounded by towering walls of ice and snow, the quietness is broken only by penguin calls, whale breaths, Arctic terns wheeling through the air, and the occasional ice-calving. The rumble of an ice-shelf breaking off and tumbling into the sea below causing tsunami-like ripples was a stunning phenomenon to witness. The beauty of Neko Harbour with its blue and green tinged ice-floes is captivating, it’s easy to get lost in the fascination of the colours and shapes of the icebergs that unfold and reveal mesmerising beauty at every angle. Some as big and linear as skyscraper buildings, others like flat tables that provide a platform for a lone seal to rest on, and others like crystalline, glittering gems where penguins gather. 

HX enhance the Antarctic experience, by offering kayaking, science-boat tours to gather water samples, and overnight ice-camping - a delight for those who enjoy soft-adventure activities, and the stuff of one-in-a-lifetime dreams! 

Antarctica is a photographer’s paradise as there’s so much to capture – sudden appearances of birds, seals, whales and penguins that take you by surprise, and light hues that are constantly changing. Sailing through the narrow fjord-like Lemaire Channel was spectacular as whales were showing-off their tail-fluking deep-diving feeding technique. 

Landing upon the ice-covered landscape where penguins abound in a variety of species is like arriving to party where you don’t know anyone. The Gentoo, Chin-Strap and Adelie Penguins waddle around, some in family groups, others having a peck at each other, others just doing their own thing, but all of them completely unphased by human presence, going about their daily activities. Their antics are a delight to observe, especially as they slide down their penguin highways to give them quicker access around the harsh, snow-covered terrain.

Sailing into Wilhelmina Bay was like entering a playing field for whales and seals with plenty of wildlife watching and photography opportunities out on deck to keep busy with, before the final landing at eerie and fascinating Deception Island, a volcanic caldera where the remnants of one of the many whale and seal hunting stations from the 1800s still stand. Wandering around this ghost town in the inhospitable, blizzard conditions surrounded by penguins and fighting fur-seals conjured thoughts of the human errors that nearly killed off entire precious species, is both poignant and engrossing.

The black volcanic sand and snow-covered landscape of swirling slalom snow-drifts resembles something of a charcoal mountainous sketch on white parchment. Harsh, unique and beautiful all at the same time. It was here that the optional Polar Plunge took place. Why come all this way and not have a dip in the freezing Antarctic waters? Whilst I braved myself, the adrenaline and surrounding excitement and hype of my fellow plungers completely overtook any fear… so much so I didn’t feel a thing and just ‘went for it’ and got the certificate!

Back on board, the day was topped off by a sail away party with entertainment by the crew band with DJ and dancing with fellow passengers, celebrating our Antarctic accomplishments as we headed once again towards the Drake Passage for the journey back to Ushuaia and Buenos Aires.

My Antarctica expedition with HX was an incredible journey that far exceeded all my expectations and wildest dreams. Antarctica is serene yet harsh; quiet yet teaming with life; rugged yet breathtakingly beautiful; fascinating yet humbling, and so much more. Above all, HX’s commitment to eco-preservation, research, sustainability the Citizens Science Project and reducing the carbon footprint is clearly evident in the way they execute their operations. HX – the world leaders in exploration travel - offer authentic, eco-friendly expedition experiences under expert guidance, whilst focussed on learning and a deeper understanding of the world we share.

This journey has afforded me a new appreciation and respect of the fragility of our planet and the wildlife that abound in their natural spaces. I would highly recommend this experience with HX – Hurtigruten Expeditions to anyone looking for an unforgettable sea-safari adventure in one of the most remote and magnificent places on earth, whilst delivering memories that will last a lifetime."

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